Traditional Nyonya cuisine in West London's heart

Nyonya in Notting Hill marks a new departure from London’s usual Asian offerings with an affordable cuisine that combines Malay and Chinese traditions delivered by one of Singapore’s premier restaurateur families, the Yeohs. ‘It was a difficult decision moving to London, leaving so many regulars back home who know us and our particular style of cooking,’ says Malaysian chefs Mary  and her husband, Yeoh Teng Chye. Their unpretentious Penang-style buffets at the Copthorne King’s Hotel, had, for some 13 years, pulled in Singapore’s great and good, from fashion mavens to parliamentarians. ‘But my family all felt from our visits to London that there was a sorry lack of good value restaurants selling interesting food. That’s why we have created Nyonya, an easy-going pit-stop where you can enjoy a quick, inspiring eat.’

Nyonya is a neighbourhood restaurant, literally at Notting Hill’s heart where three buzzing thoroughfares converge: Notting Hill Gate, Kensington Park Road, and Pembridge Road. Interiors are designed by Chris Dewar-Dixon of London’s Four IV, also responsible for Harvey Nichols and Mulberry’s new Bond Street store. The look is clean-lined, modern and serene, combining steel, black, white and grey, with low-hanging, soft-lit pendant lamps suspended over tables. During the day, the restaurant is flooded with natural light; by night, there is the colour of the busy streets outside. Most of the tables are communal-style, although on the first floor, more intimate options are available. It is open daily, from 11.30am until late, taking no reservations. Drop by for a simple Nyonya pastry - a speciality, prepared by Yeoh’s two daughters, Julie and Purdey - or for a longer evening meal, cooked by chefs Mary and Yeoh Teng Chye. The clientele is mixed - tourists, businesspeople, Notting Hill mothers meeting for tea. But above all, it’s affordable, with lunch costing about £10 a head, a three-course dinner under £20.

The menu promises something for everyone, with a strong selection of hearty noodle bowls, all authentic, using the freshest possible ingredients. The cuisine is predominantly spicy, although ‘soft options’ are also available (our recommendation: Otak-Otak, which combines special spices mixed with thick coconut milk and sliced fish wrapped in banana leaves). Vegetarian selections are generous, and there are a number of lighter dishes, like Penang Assam Laksa, consisting of rice noodles in a hot and sour fish stock, garnished with fresh vegetables. Other signature dishes include Penang Char Kway Teow, a famous stir-fried noodle with shrimp, bean sprouts, egg, soy sauce and chilli. Just be sure to leave room for dessert, the tiny diamond-shaped Nyonya Kuih, painstakingly prepared every morning with all-natural ingredients. Favourites include Sago Kuih, and Pulut Tai Tai, in delicate colours from pretty pink to blue. Then again, try them all. After all, this is how the people of Penang take their cake and eat it - five Nyonya Kuih at any one time.

Nyonya is at 2A Kensington Park Road,  less than a minute’s walk from Notting Hill Tube. For enquiries, call 0207 243 1800.